Street Meat

BY: ROGER TRAN

It’s not easy selling hot dogs on Toronto streets.

Often overlooked as just quick, convenient food on the go, hot dog stands are continually affected by weather, outdated bylaws and changes in Toronto’s tourism. Marianne Moroney, a vendor for 15 years, pays $5,500 in city fees before she can turn on the grill. Health checks and permits are part of it. And there’s no new street vending permits for the downtown area, says a Toronto Municipal Licensing & Standards representative.

“Every time you shut us down, you’re shutting our families down,” she said. “It’s not a part time job for us, it’s our job.”

In 2007, some vendors were fined by the city. They wanted windscreens protection from harsh Toronto weather, but a bylaw prohibited them from setting one up. Moroney, a hot dog vendor on University Avenue, called for an amendment. But she says former city councillor Howard Moscoe turned away and go invest in a good snowsuit.

That’s why Moroney started the Toronto Street Vendors Association.

“The politicians, they don’t care because they’ve gotten to a place where they’re just arrogant unfortunately,” she said. “It was that arrogant remark that made me realize, ‘I just have to get an association together.’”

City Hall eventually amended the bylaw.

Moroney argues City Hall doesn’t view street vendors as an industry. For example, they’re vulnerable to repair work. If construction or neighbourhood revitalizations are planned, then hot dog vendors must shut down until it’s complete.

There are also strict street food regulations. Only precooked hot dog meat is allowed outside while in places like New York City, a variety of foods are cooked and prepared on the streets. And then in 2009, City Hall tried to heat things up.

The a la Cart program allowed eight vendors to prepare different ethnic food on the street. Samosa, jerk chicken and Thai food were some of the selections. But the pilot project was deemed by many to be a failure.

Moroney says she originally asked the city for existing hot dog vendors to serve different foods, but was turned down.

“We were really upset that we were trying to get some fairness protocol to the city. And then this new program comes in,” she said. “They now built this albatross that costs an enormous amount of money.”

CONVENIENT FOOD: Henry Nguyen serves hot dogs at busy Yonge & Dundas. Despite his love for the job, panhandlers begging for food is his biggest complaint. (Photo by Roger Tran)

The eight a la Cart vendors had to buy a $30,000 cart. The manufacturer, Verity Crown, conformed to the city’s requirements and regulations but the final design was flawed with bulkiness and lack of weather protection.

Moroney blames City Hall’s micro-management.

“There were nine vendors originally (by the) second year there were four and now there are none,” she said.  “(They) took a creative idea…completely soaked it in red tape and bounded it up so it couldn’t breathe.”

However John Filion, the councillor who spearheaded the a la Cart program, sees it in a different light.

 “It was a good program that had a number of flaws in the implementation, all of which I think are correctable,” he said. “I much rather have people complaining about regulations than lack of regulations causing illness.”

But there’s a sense of pride and joy for street vendors.

Henry Nguyen owns a hot dog stand across from Dundas Square. Despite panhandlers always blackmailing him for food, he says he loves his job.

“I’m so happy to do this for (another) 10 years,” Nguyen said. “When I stay outside, I feel (like) I’m healthy. I never get sick, that’s the way I like it.”

Not too far from his hot dog stand, Mehran Bermah has grilled hot dogs for Eaton Centre shoppers and nearby tourists for 15 years.

 “You have to love your job, that’s what it boils down to,” he said.

FEAST ON THE STREET: Mehran Bermah cuts a special hot dog beside Eaton Centre. He's been a vendor for 15 years. (Photo by Roger Tran)

And Moroney enjoys playing a bright role in the local community, with her stand in front of Mount Sinai Hospital. Moroney remembers a patient who appreciated her food.

“(The patient said) Marianne, I’ve come in for my cancer treatment and this is the only thing I look forward to,” she recalled. 

External Links 

Hot dog vendor documentary (Marianne Moroney) - http://www.peacetogetherforever.com/online/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=51&Itemid=53